Crafts of Gujarat – Indian handicrafts

Handicraft Heritage
The tradition of crafts in Gujarat dates from the ancient times. The presence of a kiln at Lothal, one of the sites of the ancient Indus Valley civilisation, indicates that pottery was a well-established craft in the state. Some of the oldest and the best textiles that were in great demand in West and Southeast Asia were created in Gujarat. A visit to Gujarat, however fleeting, is replete with images of colourful and fascinating textiles, elaborately carved wooden and stone jharokhas and beautiful handcrafted silver jewellery. In Gujarat it is customary for a bride to have exquisite hand embroidered ghagras, odhnis, animal covers, bags, quilts and house decorations as part of her trousseau.

Click here to visit our Paintings and Handicrafts Gallery

Textiles
Textiles are Gujarat’s forte and one can find an immense variety of textile traditions here that range from robust folk textiles to fine brocades. In fact, the oldest known printed fabrics from India were the resist dyed and printed cottons of Gujarat. These printed fabric traditions are still going strong in Gujarat and are considered an essential part of any fashionable Indian woman’s wardrobe. The ajrakh prints of the Kutch region and the sodagiri prints of Paithapur are just two examples of Gujarat’s excellently printed textiles. The Matani-Pachedi print produced by the Vaghari community priests in honour of the mother goddess is another example of Gujarati skills in printing. Gujarat also boasts of the patola, one of the finest hand woven textiles found in Patan. In this process the warp and the weft are first tie-dyed and then woven together, an act requiring highly specialised skills.

One cannot ignore the intricate bandhej (tie-dyed fabric) of Jamnagar, Mandavi, and Bhuj, which are used for wedding outfits such as the gharchola odhni and saris. Brocades woven in Jamnagar, Mehsana, Ahmedabad, and Surat with traditional patterns of popat vel, (stylised parrot-flower borders) or asharfi (circular gold coin) were once highly prized possessions. Unfortunately, brocades are no longer produced, as they were earlier. The only types available now are the brocade borders woven on the power loom in Surat or simple patterns done in Mehsana. Gujarat also has a vibrant mashru tradition, a fabric with an interesting story behind its creation. Mashru is woven with a combination of silk and cotton, the cotton being the lower layer in touch with the skin. The fabric was woven for Muslim men who were prohibited from wearing pure silk. Though mashru is found all over India, Gujarati mashru has bold patterns and colours that lend it an attractiveness of its own.

Gujarat has a splendid tradition of ornamented household linen. From ancient times, the people of Gujarat have revelled in being surrounded by some of the most beautiful and ornamented household goods. The toran, a heavily embroidered and ornamented decoration hung over the entrance door is quintessentially Gujarati and is considered a sign of welcome. Quilts from different regions of the state showcase the best of the ornamentation techniques of the region, be it embroidery, appliqué or patchwork. The quilts in the family are usually stacked and covered with a gorgeously decorated dharaniya, full of mirrors that glint in the dark. The chakla is a wall hanging usually depicting religious figures and themes and is embroidered in different styles in different parts of the state. Embroidered pieces such as the Ganesh and surya sthapanas from Saurashtra are made for special religious purposes. Bags of all kinds and for different occasions, pillowcases, and covers for food containers are all embellished with mirrors, embroidery, beads, and cowries. During weddings and other festivals even animals are covered with brightly coloured, heavily embroidered pieces, often with holes in them for the horns to go through.

Woodcarving
Woodcarving is one of the important crafts in Gujarat, evident in many elaborately carved temples, havelis (mansions), and palaces as well as objects of daily and ritual use. Interestingly, wood was never a locally available material and was always imported into Gujarat from different timber producing regions. It was used as a structural material as early as 12th century and the Gujarati craftsmen transformed the various components of the building-the columns, ceilings, struts, doors, windows, balconies, and beam ends into veritable works of art. Nawab’s Palace in Palanpur and intricate jharokhas (windows) carved out of wood or havelis (mansions) in Vaso with their wealth of wooden architectural details, are some of the examples of wood carving tradition in Gujarat. If you are looking forward to carry home an example of such fine woodcraft, look for replicas of dowry or spice boxes available in different sizes and often embellished with brass sheet work.

Utensils
The craftsmen of Gujarat have excelled even in the making of utensils. Visit any home in Gujarat and your are sure to find a variety of gleaming copper, brass and iron vessels, each with a shape and form suited to the specific need. Metal lamps, incense burners, boxes for storing betel leaf and nut, nutcrackers, large dowry containers, and votive figurines are other examples of metal work available in Gujarat. The metal artisans of Gujarat are known as kansaras, from the Gujarati word kansu for bronze. Before the introduction of brass, the use of bronze utensils was very common. The varied kinds of nutcrackers and religious and other figurines make for ideal souvenirs and gifts.

Terracotta
Gujarat is also famous for its terracotta work, especially votive terracotta figurines that one can find in large numbers all along the countryside especially in South Gujarat. Each terracotta figurine or object has been offered to a deity or spirit and has a special significance - the small domain house is meant for the spirit to live in, the representation of parts of the human body are meant as appeasement, and the horses as an offering when vows are fulfilled. The relationship between the potter and the tribal communities are thus of paramount importance, each creation be it hand-coiled or made on the wheel has a special spiritual essence.

Jewellery
Jewellery is yet another fascinating craft in Gujarat. Each tribe or clan has different types of ornaments and what is interesting is that many communities have retained their traditional patterns of dress and ornamentation. Silver is the most commonly used metal with women of many communities wearing nearly three kilos of silver at a time. Gold and semi-precious stone jewellery were the preserve of the rich Brahmins and Banias. In tribal areas, silver is used along with coins, glass beads, cowries, dried grass, seeds, and berries to fashion colourful and vibrant jewellery. In Gujarat, there are ornaments for practically every part of the body-necklaces, earrings, nose-rings, hair ornaments, bracelets, bangles, amulets, waistbands, anklets and finger and toe rings. No ornament is worn singly. People wear many necklaces, some which stay close to the neck, others that go down to the waist, some with pendants, some with many strands, multiple rings on their fingers and toes and at least three different types of earrings all along the ear-lobe. Threads, wool and even plastic buttons are used to great effect to add colour and gaiety to the jewellery.